Retinoids and Anti-Aging: What You Should Know

Many people ask me why Vasseur Skincare’s anti-aging products do not contain retoinids. Below is a really informative excerpt from a WebMD article that discusses some of the potentially damaging side effects of using retinoids on the skin. This is an important read for anyone using or considering using retinoids and sheds light on why we as a company prefer using lactic and glycolic acids, copper peptide, idebenone, ester C and DMAE in our products.

“For years, prescription retinoids (face medications like Retin-A, Renova, and Tazorac that contain the vitamin A derivative) have been assumed to be the best anti-aging products. Indeed, decades of clinical research show that they speed cell turnover to smooth wrinkles, fade sunspots, and build collagen. But now there are claims that they can also thin the skin and cause chronic inflammation (peeling, lobster-red faces), actually leading to premature aging. The issue is dividing the beauty world.

According to New York City facial plastic surgeon Dr. Michelle Yagoda, “The key is looking at the retinol studies and understanding how much collagen can really be built,” she says. “It doesn’t matter if it gives you 10 percent less of a wrinkle—that’s so microscopic, our eyes can’t distinguish it.” Says Yagoda, retinoids are easy to prescribe, so patients are rarely offered an alternative. (In her experience, glycolic acids and lactic acids are just as effective and better-tolerated.)

While most experts agree that retinoids do produce quick results, many claim they might not be worth it. “Sure, your discolorations and lines might be getting a little better,” says Simon Erani, lead researcher for the skincare company Somme Institute, “but you’re not noticing how your skin looks papery and thin.” Erani believes any inflammation (detected in his subsurface skin photos of people who’d been using retinoids for at least eight weeks) will damage skin in the long run, which is why he’s excluded it from Somme’s formulations.

New York City esthetician Susan Ciminelli says she can spot retinoid users right away: “Their skin looks brittle because it has lost its cushion.” She believes that retinoids strip the skin, while the path to a youthful glow involves adding natural moisture and emollients.  “What you want is thick, juicy skin,” she says. “Juicy skin is young skin.”

The bottom line: There’s one thing everyone agrees on: excessive inflammation should be avoided to slow down damage and aging. So, if using retinoids makes your skin uncomfortably flaky, red, or irritated, its best to seek out gentler measures.”

In my 30 years in the skin care field, I have always preferred alpha hydroxyl acids in treating wrinkles, with lactic acid being my favorite because it does not thin or cause red, papery and flaky skin.  Our Reveal 10 contains Lactic, Glycolic and Mandaic acids, which are much more gentle on your skin and work to reduce wrinkles, pigmentation and even adult acne. Other safe and effective anti-aging ingredients I prefer over retoinds are Idebenone and Ester C, Copper Peptides, and DMAE, all of which I use in my skin care and produce fabulous results without the damaging side effects.

45 thoughts on “Retinoids and Anti-Aging: What You Should Know”

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