Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have been a hugely popular and effective skin care ingredient for years; the AHAs glycolic & lactic acid are the main active ingredients in one of our all-time best selling products Reveal 10. AHAs work by weakening the bonds between cells in the outer, dead layer of skin, which aids in exfoliation and speeds up the normal shedding process. By helping to remove this dull layer of dead skin cells and therefore revealing the new skin cells underneath, alpha hydroxy acids improve the texture of skin, unclog pores, can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and may aid in the building of collagen and elastin, both of which help to firm skin. Until recently, however, those with sensitive skin weren’t able to benefit from AHAs because they tended to be somewhat harsh on skin.
Mandelic acid, however, is a relatively new AHA that is derived from bitter almonds. It was originally utilized as an antibacterial agent used in treating skin after laser resurfacing and as an antibiotic. Researchers noticed that after prolonged use, the appearance of skin was dramatically improved. Mandelic acid has the unique ability to target a number of different skin care issues, such as repairing skin damaged by photoaging (prolonged exposure to the sun), combating hyperpigmentation and treating acne, without the irritation that can be caused by other alpha hydroxy acids.
Here’s why: The molecules of mandelic acid are larger than those of glycolic and lactic acids, two other widely used AHAs, which means that they are more slowly absorbed, and therefore less irritating to sensitive skin. Even those who suffer from rosacea can use products with mandelic acid because of its gentle properties and the fact that it doesn’t need to be buffered with other ingredients to be tolerated.
Another benefit is seen by those with darker skin tones. Unlike other alpha hydroxy acids, mandelic acid does not bring about the hyperpigmentation often seen as a reaction to the irritation caused by AHA use, particularly in African Americans and others with dark skin tones.
Like other AHAs, though, mandelic acid causes a rapid improvement in skin texture and appearance, and fine lines and wrinkles are gradually minimized over time with continued use. In addition, it is both an antibacterial and bactericidal, which means that it works well for those with oily skin or who suffer from acne.
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